FASHION AND TEXTILES 旨在提高知识并在全球时尚和纺织品行业寻求新的视角。我们欢迎原创研究文章、评论、案例研究、书评和给编辑的来信。期刊范围包括以下四个技术研究部门：纺织科学与技术：纺织材料科学与技术；染整；智能纺织服装科技：服装/纺织产品生理学；防护服 ;智能智能服装；运动服；大规模定制 ;服装制造服装和纺织品经济学/时装商业：服装和纺织品行业的管理；推销；零售；时尚营销；消费者行为;时尚社会心理学时尚设计与时尚文化研究：时尚产品或设计过程的美学方面；纺织品/服装/时装设计；时尚潮流;时尚史；服装或连衣裙；时尚理论；时尚新闻；时装展。

Fashion and Textiles aims to enhance knowledge and seek new perspectives in the global fashion and textiles industry. We welcome original research articles, reviews, case studies, book reviews, and letters to the editor. The journal covers four technical research areas: Textile Science and Technology, which includes textile material science and technology, and dyeing and finishing; Smart Textile and Clothing Technology, encompassing the physiology of clothing/textile products, protective clothing, smart clothing, sportswear, mass customization, and garment manufacturing; Economics of Clothing and Textiles/Fashion Business, which addresses management, marketing, retail, consumer behavior, and fashion psychology in the clothing and textiles industry; and Fashion Design and Cultural Studies, focusing on the aesthetics of fashion products or design processes, textile/clothing/fashion design, fashion trends, fashion history, garments or dresses, fashion theory, fashion news, and fashion exhibitions.

《Fashion and Textiles》旨在提升全球时尚和纺织品行业的知识，并寻求新的视角。我们欢迎原创研究文章、评论、案例研究、书评以及给编辑的来信。期刊的范围包括以下四个技术研究领域：纺织科学与技术，包括纺织材料科学与技术、染整；智能纺织服装科技，涵盖服装/纺织产品的生理学、防护服、智能服装、运动服、大规模定制以及服装制造；服装和纺织品经济学/时装商业，涉及服装和纺织品行业的管理、推销、零售、时尚营销、消费者行为以及时尚社会心理学；时尚设计与时尚文化研究，关注时尚产品或设计过程的美学、纺织品/服装/时装设计、时尚潮流、时尚史、服装或连衣裙、时尚理论、时尚新闻及时装展。

Fashion and Textiles

Abstract Yue Opera is known as the second most important national opera in China. The costume is an important part of the performance of Yue Opera, which carries the culture and history of Yue Opera. The purpose of this paper is to attempt a virtual simulation of Yue Opera costumes through an understanding and analysis of Yue Opera costumes, as well as to use the extracted elements related to Yue Opera costumes for modern fashion design based on Yue Opera costume style. The research method of this paper is to draw 12 sets of traditional costumes of Yue Opera by understanding and studying the costume culture of Yue Opera and transform them into a 3D digital virtual presentation of the costumes. The costume elements are then extracted for costume design so that the designed fashions can reflect the cultural characteristics of Yue Opera, and then virtual simulation technology is used for costume display to realize the dissemination of Yue Opera costume culture. The use of three-dimensional virtual simulation technology to digitize costumes contributes to the preservation and dissemination of Yue Opera costume culture. Secondly, the design of modern fashion using the concept of Yue Opera plays a role in the preservation and dissemination of Yue Opera costume culture.

Kaixuan Liu

Shunmuzi Zhou

Chun Zhu

Zhao Lü

Fash Text

Virtual simulation of Yue Opera costumes and fashion design based on Yue Opera elements

基于越剧元素的越剧服饰与时尚设计虚拟仿真

A recent development in the fashion industry, where digital transformation has accelerated, has been the birth and rise of virtual fashion influencers. With their close imitation of the human body and how active they are on social media, their influence on the fashion industry is gradually growing. The purpose of this study is to explore the trends in the activities of virtual fashion influencers and to determine the main issues in their body representation by identifying the types and current status of their reproduced bodies. One hundred and fifteen virtual fashion influencers who are active in the global fashion industry were selected as the research subjects and observed with a focus on their body reproduction. Our qualitative analysis is based on Rosi Braidotti’s theory on posthumans’ existence and body of subjectivity formation discourse. Based on the above theories, these reproduced bodies can suggest the following issues related to the risks of modern society: (1) the reproduction of standardized stereotypes, (2) the expression of the male gaze, power, and desire, and (3) colonial gender hierarchy.

Yeongyo Shin

Selee Lee

Issues of virtual fashion influencers’ reproduced bodies: a qualitative analysis based on body discourse

虚拟时尚影响者再现身体的问题：基于身体话语的定性分析

Abstract This study aimed to analyze those factors affecting the adhesion between substrate fabrics and 3D printing filaments by evaluating the influence of fabric surface characteristics, fiber composition, yarn type, and the fabric’s structure. The results showed that among nylon, PET, and cotton, nylon demonstrated the highest peel strength; however, overall, surface characteristics had a more significant impact on adhesion than fiber composition, and in terms of yarn type, fabrics made from staple fibers had higher peel strength than those made from filament yarns, which is probably due to the rougher surface of staple yarns enhancing adhesion. Regarding fabric structure, among woven, knitted, and nonwoven fabrics, nonwoven fabrics demonstrated the highest peel strength, confirming that the structure and density of the fabric play a crucial role in adhesion. It was also found conclusively that fabric surface roughness and porosity affect peel strength significantly, with rougher surfaces and higher porosity leading to increased adhesion. This is because rougher surfaces provide more area for adhesion, and higher porosity allows the molten 3D filament to penetrate more easily between the fibers, thereby improving adhesion. This study provides practical guidelines for improving the adhesion characteristics of 3D-printed composite fabrics.

Yoojung Han

Changsang Yun

Effect of substrate fabric characteristics on the peel strength of 3D-printed composite fabrics

基底织物特性对3D打印复合织物剥离强度的影响

Abstract Textile electrode is capable of measuring the myoelectric potentials of skeletal muscles such as electromyography (EMG), owing to their outstanding low weight, flexibility, breathability, and comfort properties. Nonetheless, textile surfaces often exhibit intermittent adhesion between the electrode surface and the skin, which can result in fluctuations in electrical resistivity due to the inherent characteristics of textiles. This study aimed to suggest the solutions to improve adhesive of textile electrode for the improvement of electrode performance with high quality signal by minimizing these intermittent contacts. For this, an adhesive intermediate, two different conductive materials, between the skin and the textile electrode was introduced to improve the instability skin contact, respectively. To assess the impact of various adhesive intermediates on knitted electrodes, two different types of adhesive intermediates were utilized: a conductive hydrogel-based adhesive intermediate and a conductive paste-based adhesive intermediate. Moreover, the durability of knitted electrodes with adhesive intermediate was evaluated by assessing the changes of signal quality during drying time for 180 min. As a results of sEMG measurement, it was confirmed that the sEMG signal was stably detecting by applying the adhesive intermediate. Both types of adhesive intermediate significantly increased the signal acquisition performance of knitted electrodes by more than threefold. After five washing cycle, the knitted electrodes with two types of adhesive intermediate maintained approximately 80% of their initial SNR values. Therefore, the use of the adhesive intermediate presented in this study not only improves the performance of the electrode but also ensures reusability.

Ji Eun Song

Sohee Lee

Application and evaluation knitted electrodes for body signal measurement using adhesive intermediate electrode

粘性中间电极用于身体信号测量的针织电极的应用与评估

Abstract This study investigated the antimicrobial efficacies of fabrics (100% cotton and 100% silk) dyed with an ethanol extract of Gardenia jasminoides ( G. jasminoides ). More specifically, these fabrics were dyed using a G. jasminoides extract with a dye bath ratio of 1:20 at 40–60 °C for 60 min, followed by post-mordanting. The concentrations of the aluminum sulfate, copper sulfate, and ferrous sulfate mordants were each set to 3% (o.w.f.). The samples were mordanted using a mordant bath ratio of 1:30 at 40 °C for 20 min. The iron mordant slightly increased the dye uptake (K/S) of the cotton fabric but did not increase the dye uptake (K/S) of the silk fabric. The antimicrobial efficacies of the dyed fabrics against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591 were determined to be 99.8 and 87.8% for the cotton and silk fabrics, respectively. The inhibitory effects of the cotton and silk fabrics against MRSA were 30.5 × and 167.3 × the inoculum size, respectively, indicating the superior inhibitory effect of the dyed cotton fabric. These results suggest that the fabrics dyed with G. jasminoides extract may possess antibacterial activity against antimicrobial-resistant bacteria.

Eunsook Kim

Jooyi Kang

Jinhee Lee

Nayoung Choi

Color fastness and antimicrobial activity of Gardenia jasminoides extract against antimicrobial-resistant Staphylococcus aureus

栀子提取物对耐药金黄色葡萄球菌的色牢度和抗菌活性

Abstract The surface area of the working electrode plays a crucial role in determining the sensor’s performance, especially in enzymatic sensors. Increasing the surface area of the working electrode has a significant impact on the sensor’s functionality. This research focused on developing textile-based sensors using a multi-layer concept, employing the direct coating method. Two different sensors which are multilayer textile-based sensor (MTBS) and single-layer textile-based sensor (STBS) were prepared, while commercial screen-printed carbon electrode (SPCE) was also used as a comparison. The measurements were carried out using potassium ferricyanide solutions with concentrations of 0.01 M, 0.02 M, 0.03 M, 0.04 M, and 0.05 M at a voltage of 1 V, with a maximum duration up to the end of the measurement and a time interval of 0.5 s. According to the research findings, the fluid spreading speed of the SPCE is the lowest when compared to the spreading speeds of the MTBS and STBS. Specifically, the fluid spreading speed of the SPCE is 4.3 times slower than that of the STBS and 51 times slower than that of the MTBS. Utilizing a multi-layer concept with specific coatings can lead to better-performing sensors in terms of stability and sensitivity. The MTBS exhibits the greatest sensitivity, as indicated by its linear equation slope of 717.230 µA µM −1 cm −2 .

Asril Senoaji Soekoco

Ni Luh Wulan Septiani

Muhammad Iqbal

None Irzaman

Widagdo Sri Nugroho

Febdian Rusydi

None Nugraha

Brian Yuliarto

Multilayer textile-based concept for non-invasive biosensor platform

基于多层纺织品的非侵入式生物传感器平台概念

Abstract This study aims to explore effective dust removal methods for the improvement of clothing care systems by analyzing the fabric movement caused by the twist motion and examining its influence on dust removal performance. The finite element method simulation was used to model the tension at different vertical and horizontal positions of the fabric as a spring array, to calculate the fabric movements at each position over time when a twisting force was applied and enable comparison with experiments. When observing the fabric movement due to the twist motion with actual fabrics, silk showed the greatest movement, followed by cotton and linen. Cotton experienced decreasing force from the top to the bottom, with increased amplitude at the bottom due to fluttering caused by the bottom not being fixed. When examining the fabric movement according to the velocity, slower velocity did not effectively transmit twist force to the bottom, while faster velocity resulted in more small movements. The analysis revealed that greater force at faster velocity led to better dust removal performance. Therefore, for efficient dust removal, the force transmitted to the fabric should be increased. Most dust is removed within the first 10 min, so exerting a strong force for a short duration is important.

Hyojeong Kim

Dongju Yu

Hyeonhui Jeong

Sang Wook Lee

Analysis of fabric movement and dust removal performance due to twist motion in a clothing care system

服装护理系统中扭转运动对织物运动及除尘性能的分析

Abbreviation	Fash Text
Journal Impact	2.15
Quartiles(Global)	MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES(Q1)

ISSN	2198-0802
h-index	29

Publication Information	Publisher: Springer Singapore，Publishing cycle: ，Journal Type: journal，Open Access Journals: Yes
Basic data	Year of publication: 2014，Proportion of original research papers: 93.48%，Self Citation Rate:8.70%， Gold OA Rate: 100.00%
Journal Fees	$1790Details
Average review cycle	网友分享经验：13 Weeks

Fashion and Textiles

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Virtual simulation of Yue Opera costumes and fashion design based on Yue Opera elements

Issues of virtual fashion influencers’ reproduced bodies: a qualitative analysis based on body discourse

Effect of substrate fabric characteristics on the peel strength of 3D-printed composite fabrics

Application and evaluation knitted electrodes for body signal measurement using adhesive intermediate electrode

Color fastness and antimicrobial activity of Gardenia jasminoides extract against antimicrobial-resistant Staphylococcus aureus

Effect of substrate fabric characteristics on the peel strength of 3D-printed composite fabrics

Application and evaluation knitted electrodes for body signal measurement using adhesive intermediate electrode

Multilayer textile-based concept for non-invasive biosensor platform

Color fastness and antimicrobial activity of Gardenia jasminoides extract against antimicrobial-resistant Staphylococcus aureus

Analysis of fabric movement and dust removal performance due to twist motion in a clothing care system